Tin Roof Photo Gallery

Richmond Virginia Tin and Metal Roofing Details and picture essay of a Historical Tin Roof installation. Without being in any particular order, I've taken these pictures of a roof I just completed. Tin over plank. Every board re-nailed. A bit of space between the cleats and the panels for movement. Panels fully seamed before cleating. All tin joints fully seamed without need for soldering. The panel bottoms were primed before installation. The panels were primed at the end of each day. The coating on them is the primer, not the finish coat. Color hasn't been selected.

The hips were formed as a unit so the top did not require any solder. All 3 sections are fully double-locked. I may have been able to straighten that last seam, but it couldn't have been done without exerting lots of pressure. It may have caused a tear in the hip seam. That would have been a disaster! This is a roof, not  a table piece. I chose function over form.

The finished product! A nice clean Ole Style Tin Roof with that funny step and corner cleanly tied together. No soldering

was necessary and the roof should easily last 100+ years. Leaves kept falling so I quit trying to get clean shots. Roof will

be cleaned off before final color coat. Discolorations was caused by touching up the primer here and there.

The Competition's Tin Roof Photo Gallery

 They didn't re-nail the roof deck. Nails are popping up all over. Seams 1/2 done. B-I-G is shot after the 4th. year. TIn roofs are capable of lasting 100+ years. This one is shot. My brother is re-doing the B-I-G now.  Look at the 6th. and 7th. pics. Underside of gutter. Seams nailed into instead of cleated. Edge soldered. Look at the close-up in 8. The metal is stressed and a crack has started too. All 6 chimneys leaked. My brother redid one of them.  The roof is 8-10 years old. My 20 year old roofs look just like the one above.

I get inquiries about "accessory" cleats I use sometimes to attach something to the roof without penetration the roof. So here are 7 pictures of the detail.

I used tin and brown aluminum for contrast to show the 2 types of cleats. The last one just shows how they would appear under the roof where they attach to the wood deck. By
attaching something to the tab, if it ever got destroyed, it wouldn't affect the integrity of the roof itself. And 1/2" doesn't give it a lot of play. It holds the object tightly. And it's securely attached to the substrate, not the roof itself so the odds of high wind lifting it and the roof is greatly reduced and possibly eliminated altogether.

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